All forked up - Part 1

Headset cup press...piece of cake! Time for forking! :>)

I had a fluid leakage issue with my 'new' fork. I'm hoping I've resolved that particular problem and I'm going ahead with the installation. I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

First order of business: cut the steering tube to length. Luckily, the folks at Cane Creek provided some excellent instructions on how to measure the various components and calculate the proper steering tube length. The formula is:

Lower cup height + Upper cup height + stem height + head tube length + headset spacer height - 3mm = steerer tube length

The best way to measure these items? This tool has become one of the most indispensable items in my burgeoning pile of mostly working bike tools:

6" Mitutoyo Digital Calipers. Don't leave home without them.

Bearing cup height measures the flange containing the bearing only, not the part of the cup that presses into the head tube. My lower cup height is 10.9 mm, and the upper cup height is 16.5mm. I'm using 3 spacers to bring my bars up a bit, total height 25.3 mm. Add in my stem height (the height of the stem clamp, fits on the steering tube)...40.0mm, and a head tube length of 110.2mm and the total is 202.9mm. Let's round that up a tenth to make it an even 203. Subtract 3mm and the steerer tube length is a nice round figure of 200mm.

However, before I started chopping at my steerer tube willy nilly I wanted to make sure my arithmetic was correct. The tried-and-true maxim of "measure twice, cut once" certainly applies here! So, after I measured the steerer tube and scribed a line at exactly 200mm, I prefit all the parts as a precaution. The top of the steering tube should be 3mm below the top of the stem clamp, or the headset top cap.

As you can see in the picture below, the steering tube extends past the stem clamp before cutting. I don't see my scribe line at 200mm...this is a good thing. That means it lies somewhere below covered by the stem clamp.

I used a pencil to mark the steering tube circumference at the point where it meets the stem clamp, then I disassembled everything to check my work.

A bit fuzzy here, but you should be able to see my pencil line around the circumference of the steering tube, and the short scribe line directly below. Measuring the distance with my trusty digital calipers, I get an approximate distance of 4mm. I haven't yet installed the crown race on my fork (I probably should have done that first before I preassembled the parts), but I don't think that will add much more distance so I believe my measurements are accurate and correct.

Next: cutting the steerer tube to length.

-Dwight

A pressing issue

My saw guide arrived yesterday, along with some other parts I'd ordered from Speedgoat.

Fork issues notwithstanding, I was finally ready to install my headset. But I needed a tool to press in the bearing cups.

Gravelo to the rescue!

I call this tool my 'Gravelo Headset Press'. A couple of weeks ago, my fellow blogger posted his version of a homemade headset press. I decided to follow his lead and hit the hardware store, acquiring the necessary parts. This is my interpretation of his suggested design:

I purchased a length of 7/16" allthread and cut it in half..about 18" long. Add two 7/16" nuts, two washers, two large fender washers along with two bronze thrust washers and voila! One headset press.

But does it work?

Well, check this out! Headset bearing cups in place:

Press in place and ready to go

Cranking on the nuts :>)

Cups in place, no problem!

My sincere thanks to Gravelo!

-Dwight

I think I've been forked

My fork showed up yesterday, via UPS. I didn't actually find it until later in the evening, since the delivery man left it next to the front steps in the flower bed. Since I came home after dark, it was a bit hard to see in the shadows.

I was very happy to see it since it means when my saw guide shows up, I can cut the steerer tube cut down and install my headset. I'm ready to see the frame come to life!

I opened the box and inspected my prize. Everything seemed to look fine, until I looked at the rebound control lever at the bottom of the fork.

Fluid. I noticed fluid leaking around the rebound contol knob. I pulled out the knob and removed the bolt going into the shock tube. It appeared the fluid leaked from the inside of the shock tube where the rebound control shaft fits into a hex recess in the bottom of the bolt hole. The shock tube bolt is hollow since the rebound control shaft has to pass through it. The fluid traveled through the bolt into the rebound control knob, which is held in place by an O-ring. The fluid leaked past the O-ring onto the knob and the fork.

It's not a gusher, more of a seepage. However, it shouldn't leak at all and the seller didn't indicate there were any problems. When I wrote the seller about the issue, the seller suggested tightening the bolt. That's fine, but the bolt is hollow so tightening it really doesn't seem like it will fix the problem. Of course, the shock wasn't leaking when the seller shipped it.

So now what? The sellers eBay page indicates they won't take returns, and the item is used so no warranty work. The fork does seem to work OK, but I don't want all the fluid to leak out and totally ruin it. I guess I could complain to eBay, but it all seems like a huge hassle.

BTW, I did a Google search on 'leaking Rock Shox Dart 3 forks', and found several reviews written by folks who had the exact same problem...leaking around the rebound control knob. My suspicion is that this particular fork was prone to leaking (and several other problems) so folks just swapped them out for a higher end model, then pawned them off on unsuspecting suckers like myself looking for a smokin' deal on eBay. I've always had good experiences with eBay, but I'm sure the averages were bound to catch up with me. Live and learn, Caveat Emptor!

I had a brain fart, however. I could hit the hardware store to find a bolt the same size as the shock tube/rebound control bolt and similar in length. I could adjust the rebound control where I want, and replace the hollow bolt with the solid one, using some teflon tape on the threads. I'll lose the easy rebound adjustability, but it shouldn't continue leaking. Then I'll just ride it as long as possible to get my money's worth out of it. Maybe it'll work just fine, and I figure for the buck or so it'll cost me for the bolt it's worth a try.

It's better to be forked than screwed, I guess :>))

-Dwight

A Thanksgiving Diversion

A few T-giving funnies, a former co-worker sent these to me. Good for a few yuks...

Tools, Tires, Tubes, etcetera .. $$ ..

I needed a new bike tool.

Since I was buying a 'new' fork, which of course needed the steerer tube cut down, I had to have a new tool. Of course, I read several blogs and bulletin board postings of folks saying.."You don't need a tool...just hack it off...use tape as a guide...hose clamps...mark it with a sharpie...plumbers tubing cutter...eyeball it and hope for the best...take it to your LBS...etc, etc. All great advice nuggets, but I've hacked tubing with a hacksaw before and I can tell you, if I ever cut it in a straight line it was divine providence at work. Just eyeballing it wasn't gonna cut it, at least for me. So I purchased a Park Tool SG-7 Oversized Adjustable Saw Guide. My cache of mostly working bike tools continues to grow!

It seems you need a special bike tool for everything now. I purchased a new bike take-off FSA crank (read used price, but unused part) with the 'new' style external bottom bracket, and of course you need a special wrench to tighten the bb cups into the frame. No homemade tools will cut it here, so drop the Park BBT-9 Bottom Bracket Wrench into the shopping cart. Cha-ching!

I purchased these tools from Speedgoat.com. I discovered if you spend $100 or over, you will get shipping for free. So of course I threw in some Panaracer Rampage 2.35" 29er tires, tubes, and an SRAM 9-speed chain. That easily pushed me over the $100 free shipping limit, and Merry Christmas to me!

Cha-ching! $$ :>)

Note to self: I must now purchase my lovely wife an extra nice Christmas present.

-Dwight

Slowly, I visualize

A few more parts came today.

My brake levers, seatpost, and seat showed up. What a great opportunity to assemble a few things on the bike!

I've also assembled my handlebars, grips, stem, and brake levers. Yeah, I know I'll have to remove the grips to install the shifters, but I just wanted to visualize those parts on my bike. I was standing downstairs in my combination laundry room/showering facility/bike shop holding my bars up next to the frame, seat and seatpost installed, trying to imagine myself sitting astride my latest masterpiece :>)

I picked up a lightly used 29'er suspension fork on eBay, an OEM Rock Shox Dart 3 unit. It's considered entry level, but it's also inexpensive as far as 29'er forks go and I'm sure it will work fine for it's intended purpose. Besides, it leaves room for future upgrades if I get the notion! Plus, I won't be as nervous as I would be if I were cutting a steerer tube on a $500 fork.

Once the fork comes, the steerer tube cutting and headset installation shall commence!

-Dwight

Cruising the Ramby (Pictures!)

Since the mercury hit mid 50's today, I thought I'd take the trusty Ramby out for a spin. Ya know, I don't think I've ever posted photos of the bike in it's completely finished state. So for your viewing pleasure, a few pictures of my pride and joy!

After all, I'm still calling this blog "My Rambouillet Build". Even if I've finished building it :>)